We Finally Made It to Liwa — and I'm So Glad We Stopped Making Excuses

Okay so we had been talking about going to Liwa for literally months. Every time the weekend came around, something else came up or we just didn't feel like the drive. Three hours from Dubai felt like a lot when you could just go to Kite Beach and call it a day.

But then we found out the Liwa Festival was on, and that was the push we needed. We finally packed the car and went — and I'm genuinely annoyed at ourselves for waiting so long.

The drive from Dubai to Liwa

The drive itself is easy, mostly highway the whole way. You go through Abu Dhabi and then out toward the Liwa Oasis area. Nothing too dramatic at first, just road and flat desert. But then maybe 30 or 40 minutes before you arrive, the dunes start showing up. And not just little ones. Big, proper, golden dunes on both sides of the road. That's when it starts to sink in that you're actually heading into the Empty Quarter, the Rub' al Khali, which is the largest continuous sand desert in the entire world. That detail hit different once I was actually standing in it.

The Liwa Festival — we had no idea it was this big

We went mainly for the Liwa Festival and honestly weren't sure what to expect. I'm happy to report it completely exceeded expectations. This isn't just a small local event; it draws visitors from all over the UAE and internationally, and the whole thing is massive. There are camel races (genuinely exciting to watch), traditional markets, cultural performances, heritage displays, and so much food.

The vibe is really warm and inclusive; locals, expats, tourists, families, everyone mixed together just having a good time. It felt like a proper celebration of Emirati culture rather than something staged for tourists, which I appreciated a lot.

Hiking the dunes — harder than it looks, worth every step

We didn't climb Moreeb Dune — that's the famous 300-metre monster where they hold the hill climb race during the festival, and honestly just looking at it was enough for me. But we did hike several of the other dunes around the Liwa area, and that was already a proper workout.

Here's what nobody tells you about hiking sand dunes: for every two steps forward, you slide back one. The sand just gives way under your feet no matter what you do. Your legs are working twice as hard as normal and you're moving half as fast. We were out of breath, laughing, and absolutely covered in sand within minutes.

But the view from the top? Worth all of it. You look out and it's just dunes in every direction, as far as you can see. No buildings, no roads, no noise. Just this incredible, silent sea of sand. It's one of those moments where you put your phone down for a second and just take it in.

One thing I'd say, go early. Like, before 7am and in December or January. The heat gets serious fast and hiking in the afternoon is just not fun.

Desert camping — this is the real deal

If you've only ever done the touristy desert camps near Dubai, Liwa camping is a different experience. It's quieter, further out, and feels a lot more like the real thing. Some operators set up traditional Bedouin-style tents with a proper open fire, dates, Arabic coffee, the works.

And the stars. Oh my god, the stars. Without city light pollution, the sky out there is something else entirely. We just sat outside and stared up for ages. If you haven't seen a proper desert night sky, add it to your list — Liwa is one of the best places in the UAE to do it.

Most camps also throw in dune bashing, sandboarding, or quad biking if you want to keep the adrenaline going.

You can book tours here

Other things worth doing while you're there

The Liwa Oasis itself is beautiful, lots of date palm farms dotted around, and this region is famous for producing some of the best dates in the country. If you're into off-roading, the tracks around Liwa are apparently legendary in the 4x4 community. And if you want to stay somewhere truly special, Qasr Al Sarab Desert Resort is right there in the dunes, the views from that place are ridiculous.

A few practical things before you go

Pack way more water than you think you'll need — seriously, double it. Wear actual closed shoes for the dunes because sandals are completely useless in deep sand. If you're going off the main roads at all, a 4WD is a must, not optional. And if you're driving from Dubai, fill up on fuel before you get too deep into the desert area.

Liwa doesn't have the hype that Dubai or Abu Dhabi city has, but I think that's kind of the point. It's quieter, it's raw, and it feels like you've actually gone somewhere rather than just another mall or brunch spot. If you've been living in the UAE for a while and haven't been — just go. Stop making excuses like we did.

Liwa Abu Dhabi, Empty Quarter, UAE, Liwa Festival, desert camping, UAE Moreeb Dune, things to do in Liwa, Dubai to Liwa, drive sand dune hiking, Rub al Khali, Abu Dhabi desert experience